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Willie Christie’s photographic work has long been celebrated for its blend of modernity and a deep reverence for the golden age of Hollywood. The iconic fashion editor Grace Coddington, in the foreword to Christie’s new book A Very Distinctive Style: Then & Now, eloquently captures the essence of his photography. She describes it as a perfect reflection of Christie’s personality, both inventive and playful, with a touch of humor that brings life to every frame. His work has always straddled the line between fashion and cinematic storytelling, revealing a unique ability to capture both nostalgia and forward-thinking creativity.
The book offers an intimate look at Christie’s career, showcasing a rich collection of editorial work, campaign photography, and collaborations with rock ‘n’ roll legends such as David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, and Pink Floyd. Yet among the standout images are those featuring Coddington, his former muse and romantic partner, particularly those taken during the 1970s, when they were not only collaborators but deeply entwined in each other’s personal and professional lives. One such image, a striking black-and-white photograph of Coddington in a vintage nightgown, encapsulates the romance and artistry that defined their partnership. The photograph shows Coddington standing in a windswept field, the long white gown billowing behind her, as she gazes into the distance. This poignant moment, captured by Christie, stands as a testament to a time when both their careers were on the rise, marking a period of personal and professional flourishing.
Reflecting on the image, Coddington notes how it reminds her of a beautiful chapter in her life. At the time, she was a fashion editor at British Vogue, and Christie was beginning to make his mark as a photographer. Coddington recalls her affinity for vintage clothing, which made the photograph even more meaningful to her. “I was very into vintage clothes and things like that, and the dress had a romance about it, which I love. That was also something that Willie was very good at capturing,” she says. “Our lives were very intertwined with each other in terms of his career and my career… and that picture reminds me of that.”
The story of how Christie and Coddington first met reads like something out of a fashion industry meet-cute. In the early 1970s, Christie, then an assistant to Clive Arrowsmith, one of the most sought-after fashion photographers of the era was paired with Coddington, a junior fashion editor for British Vogue, on a shoot for the magazine. Coddington recalls the awkwardness of their initial interactions, as they shared a hotel room while Arrowsmith stayed with his girlfriend. They danced around each other for privacy, adjusting to the small space. Their first official date came years later, when Coddington, in need of a plus-one for a charity ball, turned to Christie, the only man she knew with a tuxedo. What began as a simple favor soon blossomed into a deeper connection. Within weeks, the couple was living together.
Fairchild Archive/Penske Media/Getty Images
Christie’s first professional experience photographing Coddington occurred in 1973, during a shoot for The Evening Standard. Though they were already living together, Christie felt a great deal of trepidation about photographing her for the first time, fearing that a poor result might jeopardize their relationship. “I was full of trepidation before that shoot,” he recalls. “Because although we were living together, the fact that I actually had to photograph her for the first time kind of filled me with anxiety.” Fortunately, the shoot was a success, and it laid the foundation for a creative partnership that would become a hallmark of their relationship. Christie would capture the images, while Coddington would bring her styling vision to life. Together, they formed an unstoppable duo, feeding off each other’s energy and ideas.
Willie Christie
Their first collaboration for Vogue came in 1974, when they created an editorial inspired by 1940s nightclub glamour. The shoot featured model Marie Helvin as a cabaret singer, dressed in glamorous evening gowns. Christie, with his cinematic eye, envisioned an entire nightclub scene, while Coddington focused on the fashion. As Christie writes in his book, “Grace had these clothes in mind, and, ever the budding Hollywood film director, I wanted the whole nightclub scene.” Their contrasting yet complementary visions came together seamlessly, marking the beginning of a long-standing creative collaboration.
Throughout their time together, Christie’s love of old Hollywood films, such as Wuthering Heights, influenced the aesthetic of their work. One of their most memorable shoots took place just before Christmas in 1975, when the pair ventured into the Berkshire Downs. Coddington wore a vintage dress and wide-brimmed hat, while Christie lugged his camera, a Honda generator, and a single studio light. The resulting photograph, in which Coddington stands alone in a windswept field, was infused with the kind of romantic, cinematic sensibility that characterized much of Christie’s work. The image, with its stormy sky and dramatic composition, evokes a sense of longing and unrequited love, themes that were often present in Christie’s photography. “There’s a longing there,” Christie reflects. “Romance is losing, gaining, losing… it’s about unrequited love.”
Bryan Bedder/Getty Images
Despite the intense personal and professional connection they shared, their marriage in 1976 ultimately ended in 1978. Christie shifted his focus to filmmaking, while Coddington moved to the United States to continue her career, eventually becoming the creative director of American Vogue in 1988. While their romantic relationship ended, both continued to achieve great success in their respective careers. Christie remarried in 1991 to Amanda Nimmo, with whom he has two children, while Coddington married Didier Maligein. Despite their separate paths, they remained close friends, with Christie frequently visiting Coddington during trips to New York. In a recent conversation at the Fashion Institute of Technology in October 2023, Coddington asked Christie if he had ever been starstruck by any of the celebrities he had photographed. Christie’s answer was simple yet sincere: “Well, I was by you.”
Christie’s new book, A Very Distinctive Style: Then & Now, is a beautiful exploration of his career, showcasing not only his work with Coddington but also his collaborations with some of the most iconic figures in the fashion and music worlds. For more information on Christie’s work and to purchase the book, visit AC Art Books.
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