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George Hoyningen-Huene, a Russian aristocrat-turned-photographer, remains a pivotal figure in capturing the vibrant cultural and artistic spirit of Paris and New York during the 1920s and 1930s. Though his name may not be as widely recognized today, his iconic images graced the pages of Vogue, Vanity Fair, and Harper’s Bazaar, where he redefined fashion photography with a blend of classical beauty and modern flair. Hoyningen-Huene was known for his innovative portraits of cultural icons like Katherine Hepburn and Josephine Baker, as well as his stunning fashion photography that seemed to capture the glimmer of Hollywood’s golden age.
One of Hoyningen-Huene’s most iconic works, Divers (1930), demonstrates his talent for creating timeless moments from the ordinary. Captured on the roof of the Vogue studio on the Champs-Élysées, the image depicts his lover, Horst P. Horst, and budding photographer Lee Miller in a sun-drenched, serene pose that appears to be taken on a beach in the Côte d’Azur. The image captures the languid beauty of the Riviera while being shot amidst the hustle of Parisian life, illustrating Hoyningen-Huene’s ability to transform everyday surroundings into the extraordinary.
George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives
Hoyningen-Huene’s photography showcased a fusion of classical aesthetics with contemporary glamour, blending antiquity’s nobility with the boldness of modernity. His work frequently featured models in dramatic poses, recalling the elegance of ancient sculptures while embracing the modern sartorial trends of the time. This unique approach earned him a reputation as a pioneer in the worlds of both fashion and fine art photography.
Born in St. Petersburg in 1900 to an aristocratic family, Hoyningen-Huene’s early life was marked by turmoil. His father served Tsar Nicholas II but had a volatile temperament, leading to a childhood that Hoyningen-Huene later described as emotionally tense. After the Russian Revolution, Hoyningen-Huene exiled himself to France, eventually finding his artistic home in Paris where he joined the creative elite. His works during this period brought a sharp, modern edge to fashion photography, establishing him as a key figure in the cultural movements of the Jazz Age.
Though Hoyningen-Huene’s fame waned after his death in 1968, there has been a renewed interest in his work, spearheaded by Swedish entrepreneur Tommy Rönngren. Rönngren, who acquired Hoyningen-Huene’s estate in 2021, has worked with galleries to showcase the photographer’s rare vintage prints, bringing his legacy back into the spotlight. A major exhibition titled George Hoyningen-Huene: Glamour & Style at Jaeger Art in Berlin highlights his stunning portraits of the era’s most celebrated figures, such as Lee Miller, Josephine Baker, and the sultry yet elegant poses of the models he worked with.
George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives
Hoyningen-Huene’s work also reflected an awareness of contemporary issues, such as race and sexuality, exemplified in his photographs of Josephine Baker, one of the most prominent Black performers of her time. The beauty and glamour of Hoyningen-Huene’s subjects, combined with his sensitivity to their identities, makes his photography as relevant today as it was nearly a century ago.
In the mid-1930s, Hoyningen-Huene moved to Hollywood where he continued to capture the glamour of stars such as Ava Gardner and Sophia Loren. His unique photographic vision combined with his understanding of beauty in all its forms made him a revered figure among the stars and those who worked with him. Even the famous photographer Irving Penn admired Hoyningen-Huene’s work, notably coveting a portrait he took of model Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn in 1938, who would later become his wife.
George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives
Hoyningen-Huene’s talent for infusing classical beauty with modern elegance was best seen in his sensual portraits, such as L’Instant Sublime (1939), which captured the surrealist painter Salvador Dalí and his wife, Gala, in an ethereal light. These portraits continue to captivate audiences, with their blend of sophistication and contemporary relevance.
Today, Hoyningen-Huene’s legacy continues to inspire new generations of photographers and artists. His approach to photographing beauty, identity, and style has been influential not only in the fashion world but also in the broader cultural landscape. As the photography market continues to evolve, Hoyningen-Huene’s vision remains as pertinent as ever, challenging conventions and redefining glamour for the modern age.
Roger Schall/Collection Schall/Courtesy Thames & Hudson
The Jaeger Art exhibition and a new book, George Hoyningen-Huene: Photography, Fashion, Film, by Susanna Brown, are part of a broader resurgence in interest in the artist. Hoyningen-Huene’s life story is also set to be adapted into a Netflix drama, offering a glimpse into the fascinating life of a man who was not just a photographer, but a cultural force who captured the dazzling moments of a remarkable era.
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