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On the rocky shores of Jeju Island in South Korea, a centuries-old tradition is slowly fading. The Haenyeo, a group of extraordinary women divers, are known for their remarkable ability to dive to the ocean floor without the aid of modern diving equipment. Using only their strength, experience, and handcrafted tools, they harvest seafood from the depths, sustaining themselves and their families with their catch. For generations, these women have been revered as icons of resilience and self-sufficiency. However, the cultural heritage of the Haenyeo is increasingly at risk due to environmental changes and the shifting values of younger generations.
The Haenyeo community has been a cornerstone of Jeju Island’s history for over a thousand years. Unlike most societies, where men typically dominate physical labor, Jeju Island’s history is marked by a semi-matriarchal culture where women, the Haenyeo in particular, have been the primary providers for their families. For centuries, these women have dived into the icy waters of the Korean seas, harvesting shellfish, seaweed, octopus, and other marine life to feed their communities. Their ability to hold their breath for minutes at a time, diving to depths of 20 meters or more, is a testament to their skill and endurance.
Peter Ash Lee
The Haenyeo tradition, passed down through the generations, is not just about labor but represents a deeply ingrained cultural identity. The bond between the divers and the sea is profound, with each dive reflecting a long-standing respect for the environment and a sustainable way of living. Yet, despite their importance, the Haenyeo are often viewed by outsiders as mere laborers, rather than as women carrying a heritage that is central to the identity of Jeju Island. For photographer Peter Ash Lee, capturing the essence of the Haenyeo’s way of life became a passion.
Lee, a Korean-American photographer, was initially aware of the Haenyeo from his childhood visits to Jeju Island. But it wasn’t until later in life, after reconnecting with his cultural roots, that he began to truly understand their significance. After spending several days with the Haenyeo, Lee came away deeply moved by their resilience, camaraderie, and unique bond with the sea. His photography book, The Last Mermaid, tells the story of the Haenyeo, offering intimate portraits of the women as they prepare for their dives, haul up their catches, and interact with one another. Lee captures their weathered faces, their worn tools, and the profound connection between the divers and the sea. His photographs are more than just images of women at work; they are a tribute to an enduring cultural heritage that is now in peril.
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
In his book, Lee focuses on the women’s simplicity of tools, using handcrafted equipment that has changed little over the years. The Haenyeo wear neoprene wetsuits that have been meticulously repaired over time, and their most essential tool is a small lead weight, which they attach to their bodies to help them sink quickly to the seabed. They use nets and floats to collect their catch, relying on skill and endurance rather than modern technology. The Haenyeo’s daily routine involves long hours of diving, with the women arriving at dawn to check their health with blood pressure readings before heading into the chilly waters. It’s a tough life, but for many of the women, it’s also a deeply fulfilling one.
One of the divers Lee spent time with was Ko Ryou-jin, a third-generation Haenyeo, who reflected on the fading tradition during their conversations. “I’m going to be the last one,” she told Lee in Korean before adding, in English, “I’m the last mermaid.” Ko’s words serve as a poignant reminder that the Haenyeo tradition is on the brink of disappearing. Climate change has caused shifts in marine ecosystems, making it increasingly difficult for the Haenyeo to find their main catch, such as turban conch, a mollusk considered a delicacy in Japan. Over the past few decades, warming waters have disrupted the delicate balance of marine life, attracting harmful sea creatures such as snakes and octopi to the region while depleting the populations of the mollusks the Haenyeo rely on. Furthermore, the rise in sea urchin populations has made it more challenging for the divers to harvest the species they have traditionally relied on.
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
These environmental changes, compounded by overfishing and rising temperatures, have forced the Haenyeo to adapt their methods of harvesting. Where the Haenyeo once enjoyed a relatively sustainable way of life, they now find themselves having to dive for longer periods and at greater depths to find their catch. In some cases, the divers must swim for hours before encountering anything worth harvesting. “It’s harder to find marine life to catch,” Lee said. “Their sustainability practice has been broken. They have to work that much harder to make a living.” As the conditions of the sea change, the Haenyeo’s way of life becomes ever more difficult and hazardous.
Yet another challenge to the survival of the Haenyeo tradition is the generational shift in attitudes toward the profession. Younger women, who now have more career choices and opportunities in urban areas, are increasingly reluctant to join the ranks of the Haenyeo. The physically demanding work and the uncertain future of marine ecosystems have made it a less attractive option. Ko, who had once feared she would be the last Haenyeo, is now hopeful after another younger woman recently joined their ranks. For now, the tradition continues, but there is no guarantee it will survive long into the future.
Despite these challenges, the Haenyeo community remains determined to preserve their way of life. They continue to gather together, supporting one another as they dive and harvest the sea. As Lee observed, there is no sense of hierarchy within the Haenyeo community; everyone, regardless of age, works together as equals. “It just seemed more harmonious in a way,” Lee said. “I’m so grateful to have been allowed into that space and to observe.”
The Haenyeo’s struggle to preserve their heritage is a microcosm of the larger environmental and social changes taking place across the globe. As communities everywhere grapple with the effects of climate change, the decline of traditional livelihoods like the Haenyeo’s serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of preserving cultural practices and the environments that sustain them. The Haenyeo may be fewer in number, but their dedication to their heritage and their way of life continues to inspire those who encounter their story.
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
Peter Ash Lee
For Ko Ryou-jin and her fellow divers, the Haenyeo tradition is more than just a profession; it’s a way of life that connects them to their ancestors and to the sea itself. In a message in Lee’s book, Ko writes, “I wish for this beautiful Korean cultural tradition of Haenyeo to continue without interruption. This is why I hold my ground and share my story, hoping to spark curiosity and encourage others to take on the challenge.” Her words serve as a call to action for those who are willing to listen and a reminder that, despite the challenges, the Haenyeo’s legacy can still be preserved — if only we make the effort to ensure it.
As the Haenyeo community continues to fight for their heritage, it is essential that their story is shared and celebrated, ensuring that the unique bond between the women and the sea is not forgotten. The Haenyeo are not just divers; they are the guardians of a cultural tradition that, if lost, would mark the disappearance of an irreplaceable part of South Korea’s history. It is up to all of us to help keep their legacy alive.
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